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HAUS OF MCLEES PRESENTS ‘RENATUS’: ROOTED IN NATIVE AMERICAN HERITAGE AT LONDON FASHION WEEK
What happens when the self is lost to darkness and must confront its most vulnerable, stripped-back form before it can begin again?
For Haus of Mclees, the answer lies in RENATUS, Latin for ‘reborn’. The collection explores the psychological, spiritual and physical journey through darkness towards light, considering what must be surrendered before something new can emerge. Founded by Swiss and Native American designer Mclees Mantegazza, Haus of Mclees g rew from her connection to traditional beadwork and the time she spent with her grandfather on the Wind River Reservation. It was there that she was first introduced to the craft, which would become central to her approach to fashion and adornment. Today, that influence is expressed through intricate hand-beading, sculptural silhouettes and one-of-one pieces that draw as much from music, performance and festival culture as they do from Mantegazza’s heritage. In just two years, what began as a one-woman operation has grown into a small atelier in Notting Hill, where a team of designers and artisans work alongside Mantegazza to develop the house’s highly detailed pieces.
RENATUS began with a book Mantegazza created during her master’s degree, exploring the experience of losing oneself to darkness before confronting the most vulnerable version of the self. The idea became the starting point for a collection concerned with surrender, renewal and the possibility of beginning again. A restrained palette of black, white, silver and gold reflects this passage. Exposed silhouettes and sculptural forms reveal the body rather than conceal it, while recycled materials, silk, embellished mesh, embroidery, crystals and semi-precious stones are transformed through intricate hand-beading. Angelic and religious imagery sits alongside references to Mother Nature, while the recurring spiral becomes a symbol of continuity and return. Drawing in part from Mantegazza’s Native American heritage, RENATUS considers death not as an ending, but as part of a continual process of change.
Collections are produced in limited quantities, with many pieces made to order in the Notting Hill atelier. Recycled, repurposed and second-hand materials are used wherever possible, while the majority of garments are handcrafted by the brand’s small team of designers and artisans. Selected jewellery from Lady Pill Art, created in collaboration with Taylor Papadakis, extends the collection’s exploration of adornment beyond the garments. This approach also extends to the women who wear Haus of Mclees. Inclusive sizing, custom orders and made-to-order pieces allow garments to be considered around different bodies and personal expressions. As a Native American-founded label, the house is committed to Indigenous visibility and respectful representation.
The brand has already developed an international presence, presenting at Miami Swim Week and London Fashion Week, with its work featured in Forbes and Vanity Fair. Its pieces have been worn by artists and performers including Shakira, Bombay Mami, Natasha Diggs and Naïka, reflecting the house’s continuing relationship with music and performance.
Looking ahead, Haus of Mclees will showcase during Paris Fashion Week in October 2026 before relocating to Miami in January 2027. The move will mark a new chapter for the house, bringing expanded collections, new ready-to-wear offerings and a major menswear line, while bespoke couture and custom commissions will continue. Despite its international growth, Mantegazza intends to retain the intimacy and individuality of the atelier that has shaped the house from the beginning.
With RENATUS, Haus of Mclees considers what it means to begin again. To bloom again, something within us must first be willing to die.
Mclees Mantegazza would like to extend a special thanks to her team, Brent Heighton (Manager, and assistant beadwork designer), Coffee Lum (Assistant Designer), Ariel Chow (Assistant Designer), and Bella Conner (Design Intern).
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